Fendi kicks off Fashion Week, going east in culture-hopping shows

PARIS (AP) — Fendi’s ultra-white, sanitized runway to cap Paris Fashion Week on Thursday once again brought the spotlight, not the decor.

It allowed guests including Bond star Lashana Lynch and Korean actress Song Hye-kyo to take in every bead, palette, and spliced ​​paneling behind this impressive fall display.

Italian home designer Kim Jones wanted to “move away from Rome” with creations flowing between different eras, cities, memories, and cultures, beginning in Japan.

Haute couture is a centuries-old Parisian tradition of producing exorbitantly priced, made-to-measure clothing for the world’s richest people.

Here are a few glimpses of Thursday’s fall-winter 2022 collection, which includes several emerging brands:

Fendi’s Kyoto

“We’re looking at pieces from different cities like Kyoto, Paris and Rome,” Jones said. “The fragmentary nature of things echoes everywhere … like a snatch of memory.”

Jones went back in time, and went back to the atelier, in a show that reinvented old-school artistic techniques—with aplomb.

The kimono fabric of 18th-century Kyoto – with beautiful patterning – was cut into strips and shards to produce an abstract gown in gray and beige with a clean white sporty collar. Like many looks in this collection, it too had a futuristic feel.

The exception was the sheer tulle gown sprinkling with Japanese maple leaves that proved the rule in this overall tasteful collection, which used humor and design quirks to keep energy levels up.

Shimmering floor-length gowns were high in terms of creativity, beauty and fun. A dazzling floor-sweeping, silver tectonic paneled dress sporting another dress hanging from her back, incredulously, sweeps the floor a second time.

the art of invitation

The era of email and increasing environmental awareness has not left much of an impression on the fashion industry invitation codes.

Season by season, gasoline-guzzling couriers personally to Paris to deliver elaborate, often handcrafted, show invitations as top houses vie for the wackiest or most imaginative idea.

Olivier Rousteing’s invitation to his only Jean Paul Gaultier couture featured one meter (yard) of black branded diagonal ribbon wrapping a card. It was held in place by a white robe pin. Sure, the draped diagonal ribbons featured on a runway look life-size—in Wednesday’s energetic display.

For Fendi, a hollow white architectural arch revealed the home’s logo through its window. While Schiaparelli showed off an atelier sketch of a woman adorned with flowers, sporting a wide-brimmed hat and gold bracelet—styles that defined Daniel Roseberry’s fall collection aesthetic.

Yuima Nakazato turns blue

A contemplative set — worthy of a staged play — awaits guests at Japanese couture up-and-comer Yuima Nakazato’s fall performance.

It was titled “Blue”. It was the color of gorgeous fabric boulders in the set, strewn across the stage-cum-runway, that set the tone of contemplation, peace and harmony – that permeated the garment.

The abstract blue droplets fired by the model were more than a whiff of a distant Star Trek planet. Indeed, Nakazato’s work revolves around technology, and Home says he uses non-gender creations to “explore the future of clothing”.

Long flowing silk forms, tied at the waist or cross-over, gently ruffled over Asian dress styles. But in their sheer whiteness and softness of silhouette there was another etherealness. The silk on a pair of billowing white sleeves was so diaphanous that the model’s footsteps caused her to float weightlessly in the air.

Colorful abstract shapes – like giant gleaming brooches – were placed at the waist or neck with multiple looks, like a sea-creature or some pretty alien lifeform in blue, purple and gold that came along for the ride.

Julie de Libran Drips in Couture

Months after opening her first Paris boutique, another up-and-comer, Julie de Libran, was in an eclectic mood. Fall was a fascinating display with lots of sparkle and a little bit of everything.

Set in a lush patio garden with sweet-scented jasmine blooms on one side, the collection conveys an intimate feel.

Truly intimacy and personal touch are hallmarks of the designer, who has hosted clients and journalists at her Left Bank house for shows and fittings since launching her home in 2019. This practical approach is becoming increasingly rare, but graces the beating heart of fashion, the scintillating art of gowns made to measure.

On Thursday, the show provided several gentle contrasts.

A square-shaped gold-embroidered jacket had a feel of 1930s Hollywood glamour, worn over a silver mesh ribbon collar style that could be worn by 1980s New Romantics.

A hat-sleeve pillar dress was extremely simple, with a multicolored textured palette and embroidery. Another vintage look – with a chainmail neck clasp – drips fabulously under the weight of its beading that cascades into feathery blows.

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